Southern Ecuador Part 2 (Nov 11-14)

Golden plumed Parakeets, Road between Zumba and San Andres, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Golden plumed Parakeet, Road between Zumba and San Andres, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

White capped Dippers, Road between Zumba and San Andres, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Nesting trees of Golden plumed Parakeets, Road between Zumba and San Andres, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Parque Nacional Yacuri, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Plumbeous Sierra Finch, Parque Nacional Yacuri, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Neblina Metaltail, Parque Nacional Yacuri, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Paramo, Parque Nacional Yacuri, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Chestnut crested Cotinga, Road west of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Flame faced Tanager, Road west of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

We spent another somewhat restless night in Zumba (including some Wednesday night fireworks!) before making a very early trek out to the west with the destination being the paramo in Yacuri National Park. We were on the road at five and drove steadily west for about three hours. We had a couple nightjar species along the road predawn but nothing too unusual. A brief stop in an area with tall palms produced at least half a dozen Golden plumed Parakeets with lots of vocalizations. We had the road almost all the way to the paramo to ourselves and it really felt like you were isolated from the world. The weather was almost completely clear which provided some truly amazing views of the mountains. We made it to the high point of the road (around 3500 meters) and into the paramo around 8:30 or so and started looking for the specialty species of the area. We got a few species but no lifers (I had been to the paramo in the northern part of Ecuador before). In the end we got most of the species we expected to find there but did miss on a couple. The ride back down the mountain took slightly less time but was still a long drive. A stop along the way proved fruitful with a pair of Chestnut crested Cotingas that showed very well. The stop also afforded some good views of tanagers with Flame faced Tanagers being the most impressive. We got back to Zumba to have a slightly earlier lunch, pick up our luggage and then head north to our final destination for the day at Casa Simpson in the Tapachalaca reserve. 

Masked Yellowthroat (Maranon Yellowthroat subspecies), Road north of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Masked Flowerpiercer, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

Amethyst throated Sunangel, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

We spent the afternoon yet again searching for the Maranon Yellowthroat and we just keep coming up empty. As we neared an area where the species has been seen before (but not regularly) the clouds moved in and it started to rain. We made stops in the rain and still nothing. We made yet another stop with the rain falling lightly and we finally found the bird. We were both relieved! We then continued our drive to Tapichalaca to the Casa Simpson Lodge where we arrived around 3:30. Although the rain continued on and off the hummingbird feeders provided some great looks at three species of hummingbirds that fed at arms length. We tried one more time for some roadside birding before dinner but the rain kept things quiet. We then had dinner at the lodge and spent the night there. 

Jocotoco Antpitta, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Jocotoco Antpitta, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Russet crowned Warbler, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

White eyed Parakeet, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Undulated Antpitta, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

White throated Quail Dove, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Chestnut breasted Coronet, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

After a night at the lodge and an early breakfast we were out the door with one of the local guides to visit a nearby trail system.  The big draw at the location is the Jocotoco Antpitta which was initially discovered in the area in 1997 and the reason the reserve was created (the first reserve of the Jocotoco Foundation). We made the hike into the area where the antpitta has been accustomed to coming in to feed on worms offered to it every day. The hike in was muddy and wet but certainly passable if you watched your footing. On the way into the antpitta feeding station we came across a number of birds including multiple pairs of White eyed Parakeets, an Undulated Antpitta (usually not in the area during this time of year), at least two White throated Quail Doves and multiple Russet crowned Warblers which offered incredible looks. Once we made it to the feeding station the guide started whistling and calling the antpitta in. After a bit of waiting the Jocotoco Antpitta made an appearance and fed from just several feet away. Antpittas can be extremely hard to see and having one so close was a treat for sure. I had a similar experience during my last trip to Ecuador when we visited a site where a farmer learned to feed multiple species of antpitta and could call them by name and have them come right in.  Once we had our fill of the antpitta we started walking our way back out and the rain started to pick up but not before we came across a nice mixed flock which contained a number of species but we had no luck turning up a Three banded Warbler despite a lot of effort. We then headed back to the lodge to pick up our items and get one more quick fix at the hummingbird feeders.  

Tumbes Sparrow, Catamayo dump, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

 Croaking Ground Dove, Catamayo dump, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Three banded Warbler, Chinchas-Portavelo Road, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

White vented Plumeleteer (Ecuadorian), Chinchas-Portavelo Road, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Peruvian Tyrannulet (Loja), Chinchas-Portavelo Road, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Yellow rumped Cacique, Chinchas-Portavelo Road, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Before 10AM we were on the road again for another long drive north and then west to Buenaventura and two nights at the Umbrellabird Lodge. To break up the drive we made several short stops along the way. The first couple stops were not too productive but the light rain probably didn’t help the situation. A brief stop at dump in Catamayo produced my first Croaking Ground Doves as well as a Tumbes Sparrow. After a bit further of a drive we turned off the paved road and headed down a dirt road that produced some great stops with many highlights including Three banded Warbler. We finally arrived at the Umbrellabird Lodge around dinner time.  The evening produced my first Black and White Owls which we were able to both hear and see. 

White necked Jacobin, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Green Honeycreeper, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Crowned Woodnymph (Emerald-bellied), Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Olive crowned Yellowthroat, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Thick billed Euphonia, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Club winged Manakin, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Golden Tanager, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Collared Aracari (Pale-mandibled), Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Violet bellied Hummingbird, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Green Thorntail, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Long wattled Umbrellabird, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

Red masked Parakeet, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

On our first morning at Buenaventura we hit the roads above the lodge in a thick fog and light rain/drizzle looking for mixed flocks as we headed to an area where the endangered El Oro Parakeet nests. We birded the road going up and had some birds but the fog made viewing difficult at times. By the time we made it to the first area where the parakeets have been seen the sun was shining through but there were no parakeets around. We stayed for a bit but then decided to try another spot. Although the local guide with us heard the parakeets once we didn’t so no luck at the second spot either. All was not lost as there was a great mixed flock moving through that produced some good birds including a Club winged Manakin displaying By the afternoon the rain had started up in earnest once again and we headed down the trail in the hopes of getting out of the rain and we were somewhat successful in that endeavor We then made it to the lek sight of the Long Wattled Umbrellabird (a rare crow sized bird with a long wattle and a very unique display). The rain continued to pick up as we walked down to the site. We got muddy and soaked but kept going. Thankfully one of the lodge guides was there and after a clamor up a muddy slope we got to see the bird. Unfortunately due to the rain he was not displaying but was impressive nonetheless. A truly odd looking bird and my final lifer for the day. The rest of the afternoon was spent drying out and enjoying the feeders at the lodge.

El Oro Parakeets, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

El Oro Parakeets, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

Mountains in the morning, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

Rufous headed Chachalaca (no trip to the tropics is complete without chachalacas), Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

Howler Monkeys, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

Agouti, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

Gray and Gold Warbler, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

Booted Racket Tail, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

Blue necked Tanager, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

On my last day of birding we began with a trip back up the mountain along muddy dirt roads to try our luck once again in tracking down the El Oro Parakeet. The morning started a little earlier than the day before and we didn’t make as many stops getting to the top. We made it to parakeet area around 6:30. It was somewhat clear to start but the fog moved in and cut visibility again. We had a couple parakeets fly past very distantly and then disappear into the fog. As we waited for parakeets to return we poked around the old hacienda and turned up some birds with an impressive number of crakes calling plus other stuff. As I was watching a Azara’s Spinetail a flock of El Oro Parakeets flew right over me. I quickly made it back to the area that overlooked the small valley and the flock of ten had perched in a far tree and I got some distant photos through the fog. As we watched them the conditions cleared up and we got distant but great views before the entire group took off to parts unknown. As we waited a bit for them to return once again we got some raptors moving on the first thermals of the day plus my first chance to get some photos of a chachalaca before the end of the trip (rufous headed Chachalacas to be exact). Before heading back down the mountain again we checked out the small hummingbird feeding station and although the overall numbers were much lower than at the lodge the overall diversity of hummingbirds was greater with eight species. We then birded the road down to the lodge with a few stops in the ever increasing fog. By the time we made it to the lodge for an early lunch the rain was starting to fall lightly. I took in the spectacle at the feeding station one more time before packing up and beginning the long drive back to Guayaquil. 

Magnificent Frigatebird, Puerto Jelí, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

Yellow crowned Night Heron rookery, Puerto Jelí, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

We broke up the four hour drive with a quick stop along the coast to pick up some coastal birds. The tide was high and the area busy with people but we did get a few more species for the trip. The most noteworthy sighting there was a large Yellow crowned Night Heron rookery that had dozens of active nests. We arrived in Guayaquil around 6 and then I waited around for hours until my red eye flight back to Miami.  The remainder of the day was spent in the airport and I eventually made it back home late in the afternoon on  the 15th. 

Overall it was a very successful trip with all my targets found.  The trip produced a total of 311 species with 75 of those being life birds.  My total number of species ever now stands at 1657.  

More details on the warblers for the trip can be found at the following link:  southern Ecuador warblers.

Southern Ecuador Part 1 (Nov 7-Nov 10)

Black crested Warbler, Reserva Huashapamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Recently back from a trip down to Southern Ecuador with the main focus being a variety of warblers.  The target species for the trip included Gray and Gold Warbler, Citrine Warbler, Three banded Warbler, Masked Yellowthroat (two subspecies-Black lored Yellowthroat and Maranon Yellowthroat) plus the local subspecies of Olive crowned Yellowthroat (I had previously seen two other subspecies (Belding’s Yellowthroat and Chiriqui Yellowthroat) in Costa Rica. These various yellowthroat subspecies likely represent unique species and some taxonomic classification organizations already recognize them as such. I also wanted to try to find the gray bellied subspecies of the Russet crowned Warbler. In addition I hoped to get some photos of other warbler species I have seen in the tropics before before but did not get photographs including Three striped Warbler, Black crested Warbler and Spectacled Redstart.  As it is the tropics I also hoped to add a bunch of other species too.  This was certainly a bucket list trip and one I had been looking forward to making for a few years (the pandemic curtailed lots of travel plans but thankfully some areas are opened up now with obvious restrictions).  The trip began with a late afternoon flight down to Miami on Saturday so I could get a reasonably early flight down to Guayaquil. I was sweating the various legs of the trip as American Airlines had experienced multiple days of thousands of flights being cancelled just a few days before.  This would be my second trip to Ecuador with the my previous visit in November 2015 with posts from that trip attached (Part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4 and part 5).  More details on the warblers for the trip at the following link: southern Ecuador warblers.

Ecuadorian Ground Dove, Carretera Transversal Austral toll booth, Guayas, Ecuador, Nov 8, 2021

 Saffron Finch, Carretera Transversal Austral toll booth, Guayas, Ecuador, Nov 8, 2021

Horned Screamers, Manglares Churute Ecological Reserve, Guayas, Ecuador, Nov 8, 2021

Gray and Gold Warbler, Manglares Churute Ecological Reserve, Guayas, Ecuador, Nov 8, 2021

Striated Heron, Manglares Churute Ecological Reserve, Guayas, Ecuador, Nov 8, 2021

I arrived into Ecuador in the late afternoon of Sunday and met up with the guide (Charlie Vogt) from andean birding for the duration of the trip (he came highly recommended by the Griffiths who had used him as a guide on their trip to Ecuador). We stayed the night in Guayaquil and then headed out after breakfast on Monday morning for our first stop which was along the road near a toll booth in an area of savannah where among the many species in the area I picked up three life birds (Saffron Finch, Chestnut throated Seedeater and Ecuadorian Ground Dove). We then continued south along the coast down to the Marglares Churute Ecological Reserve where we made a several stops including a short hike in the forest that turned up the first target species of the trip with the sighting of a few Gray and Gold Warblers. They were not super cooperative for photos as they worked there way through the forest but I did eventually get some shots.  The hike also produced three more life birds with Pallid Dove, Jet Antbird and Amazilia Hummingbird. The other nearby stops added even more new species with Wattled Jacana, Straited Heron and Horned Screamer (which the guide picked up in a very distant tree). The various ponds in the area contained a wide variety of waders and some ducks as well as a number of raptors. After leaving that area we ran into an issue with our original planned route as a landslide had closed the road. We had to reroute which added at least an extra hour onto our already long day of driving as we headed toward our final destination for the day in Saraguro. 

Masked Yellowthroat (Black lored Yellowthroat), Uzhcurrumi, Azuay, Ecuador, Nov 8, 2021

Scrub Blackbird, Uzhcurrumi, Azuay, Ecuador, Nov 8, 2021

We made a few very brief stops to stretch our legs but most of the rest of the day was spent driving. Nonetheless we still managed to add a couple more new species including the second target bird of the trip.  A pull off in the hills in an area with dense scrub vegetation produced a Masked Yellowthroat of the Black lored subspecies. This bird is recognized as a distinct species by some bird classification authorities and is known as Black lored Yellowthroat. The other new species for the day was a quick drive by look at a Yellow rumped Cacique. We made a lunch stop in a small town and we were such celebrities they wanted photos of us for their Facebook page and gave us each small gifts…I assume not many gringos stop by! Monday produced 13 lifers including two of my targets. We then spent the night in Saraguro in a small hostel named Achik Wasi (which I’m fairly certain has the worlds hardest mattresses!). 

Chiguanco Thrush, Saraguro, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Jungle in the fog, Chinchipe, Zamora Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Black crested Warbler, Reserva Huashapamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Spectacled Redstart, Reserva Huashapamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Citrine Warbler (species #1600 for me), Reserva Huashapamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Bearded Guans, Reserva Huashapamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

White banded Tyrannulet, Reserva Huashapamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Buff breasted Mountain Tanager, Reserva Huashapamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Pearled Treerunner, Reserva Huashapamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Tuesday started early with a predawn breakfast before we headed out. We were not even out of the driveway when we spotted the first lifer of the day with a couple Chiguanco Thrushes. We made it to our first birding location in Reserva Huashapamba a little after six and despite the fog we had some good luck in turning up birds including some vocal Bearded Guans, a couple tapaculo species and multiple tanager species (list here). The real highlight however was finding four of my target species with Citrine Warbler being a lifer and my 1600th species ever. The other targets were Black crested Warbler, Russet crowned Warbler and Spectacled Whitestart. I got marginal photos of most of these as well as other species. We finished off the morning birding the area of Cerro Acanama which was also foggy and made photos a bit tough to get but did hold some higher elevation species.  We birded the road once again on the way back down the mountain and with the fog slightly lifted got better looks and some photos of various species.

Peruvian Pygmy Owl, Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Long tailed Mockingbird, Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Ash breasted Sierra Finch, Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Paradise Tanager, Road north of Zumba, Zamora Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Russet backed Oropendola, Road north of Zumba, Zamora Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Green Jays (Inca Jay), Road north of Zumba, Zamora Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

Maranon Thrush, Road south of Zumba, Zamora Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

White banded Swallow, Rio Isimanchi, Zamora Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 9, 2021

After a few hours of birding we started the long drive toward Zumba down on the Peruvian border in the Maranon Valley. We made a number of brief stops on the way with a few turning out to be quite productive with multiple lifers including distant looks at a couple Paradise Tanagers (one of the more spectacular tanagers in a family that contains loads of spectacular tanagers). It is a long way down a dirt road We stayed the night in a small hotel in the middle of Zumba where every noise expected in a small town went on all night from dogs and chickens to people to motorcycles to music. It was not a great place to try to get some sleep but I luckily come prepared to sleep through loud noises. I managed a very impressive 23 lifers on Tuesday.

Yellow tailed Oriole, El Chorro, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Wedge tailed Grass Finch, Pucabamba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Lesser Elaenia on nest, Pucabamba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Blue gray Tanager (White edged), Pucabamba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

 Silver beaked Tanager, Pucabamba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Black faced Tanagers, Pucabamba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Lined Antshrike, Pucabamba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Peru/Ecuador border, La Balza, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Vermilion Flycatcher, La Balza, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

We were out the door early once again on Wednesday and with the whole day available we headed south birding along the road all the way to the Peruvian border. Although the morning started off rather cloudy with some fog, the sun eventually won out and it got hot by the time midday rolled around. We made several stops along the road as we worked our way toward the Peru border. Overall most stops were quite active and produced a number of notable sightings including Yellow tailed Oriole, Wedge tailed Grass Finch and Vermilion Flycatcher. Once we got to the border we learned it was still closed off due to the pandemic so our plans to have lunch in Peru got quickly changed. We did get to go out on the bridge after getting permission from the border guards and I added a few species to my Peru list. Without lunch available at the border we had to head back to Zumba for lunch. We took a midday break due to the heat before heading back out again around 1:30. 

Mountains, Road west of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Silvery Tanager, Road west of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

Saffron crowned Tanager, Road west of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 10, 2021

After a midday break we headed west out of town to some higher elevations and despite a lot of effort we failed to turn up the Maranon subspecies of Masked Yellowthroat but the day was very hot.  Although we did not the yellowthroat we did run across a couple mixed species flocks and got some good tanagers among the other species.  The scenery to the west of Zumba was quite impressive.