Trip to Arenal area of Costa Rica produces my 2000th species (Sunbittern) plus lots of others -March 5-12th

Sunbittern (species #2000 for me), Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Arenal volcano, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

After a two year hiatus from Costa Rica after our favorite destination there (Rio Magnolia Lodge) closed abruptly after being sold, we had plans to finally make an early flight down on Monday morning the 4th out of Hartford to San Jose to start our 15th trip to Costa Rica. It was such an early flight we stayed overnight at the hotel at the airport. When we got up at 3:30am we then found out our flight was delayed until late morning, which meant we would not be making our connecting flight to San Jose. We then spent a few hours trying to come up with other options to get down to Costa Rica but the only option ended up involving a flight down to Florida where we would have to spend the night before taking a late morning flight to San Jose.  Not a great start to the vacation but not much we could do about it.  Our last trip down there was January 2022 to Rio Magnolia Lodge and then I got to stay in the country after getting Covid and not being allowed to leave for another week.

Montezuma Oropendola, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 5, 2024

Bananaquit, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 5, 2024

Chestnut sided Warbler, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 5, 2024

Arenal volcano, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 5, 2024

We eventually made it to San Jose around midday and then made the three hour plus trip up to Arenal Observatory Lodge where we arrived around four. I added one life species on the way with a small group of White throated Magpie Jays in La Fortuna. After getting unpacked we enjoyed some birds right from our small deck including a breeding colony of Montezuma Oropendolas. A short walk to dinner provided some more species within the well maintained gardens and the way back produced a Striped Owl (another new species #1999). Thankfully we made it back to our room before a little overnight rain started. 

Sunbittern (species #2000 for me), Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Sunbittern (species #2000 for me), Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Arenal volcano, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Collared Aracari, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Montezuma Oropendola, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

White necked Jacobin, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Scarlet-rumped Tanager (Passerini's), Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Cape May Warbler, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Coatis, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Violet headed Hummingbird building nest, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Great Currasow, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Spotted Woodcreeper, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Emerald Tanagers, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Ornate Hawk Eagle with a Melodious Blackbird, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Ornate Hawk Eagle, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 6, 2024

Wednesday I was up before dawn to start checking out the various trails at the lodge. I decided to head out through some secondary forest and then onto some open field areas before it got too hot. The views of the volcano were spectacular for the entire day. As I walked through the different habitats I added a number of species for the trip with the best of the day waiting until I arrived at a fast moving stream fairly early on.  As soon as I arrived and scanned the water I noticed a Sunbittern working along the shore, actively feeding. The Sunbittern became species number 2000 for me and I was quite happy to have such an elegant species get me to that milestone. As I walked further I was on the lookout for mixed species flocks and I ran across just one decent group with other areas fairly quiet.  Nonetheless all the looking paid dividends (as it always goes in the tropics) with multiple hummingbird bird nests being found and a few close encounters with Great Currasows. I also added a few new species to my Costa Rica list (beyond the Sunbittern) with Sephia capped Flycatcher, a rare for the area Cape May Warbler and Hepatic Tanager. Late in the afternoon while sitting out on our deck we heard a ruckus from a number of birds and then saw an Ornate Hawk Eagle pop into view. It changed perches a few times and drove all the local birds mad before it finally flew away with a few species giving chase…a nice way to end an afternoon of sitting outside. I ended the day with a total of 93 species.

Orange chinned Parakeet, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Red legged Honeycreeper, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Spotted Woodcreeper, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Golden crowned Warbler, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Clay colored Thrush, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Great Curassow, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Montezuma Oropendola, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Carmiol's Tanager, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Golden winged Warbler, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Howler Monkey with baby, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Howler Monkey, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Buff rumped Warbler, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Great Kiskadee with nest material, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

Northern Waterthrush, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 7, 2024

The second full day at the lodge found me heading out before dawn once again. I decided to try a few new trails for the walk before breakfast. I headed straight out to the far end of the property to hit some edges of the primary forest plus some pasture areas before ending in some secondary forest. It was a productive walk with a number of new species for the trip and better looks at some species I had seen/heard the day before. A few mixed flocks added some excitement and I certainly missed a number of species as the groups moved rapidly through the jungle. I managed a total of around eighty species for the walk before breakfast including one new species for my Costa Rica list with a Black and Yellow Tanager. After breakfast we headed out on a few trails and almost immediately came across a troop of Howler Monkeys. Always fun to watch as they bounce from tree to tree. A bit further down the trail I noticed some movement low down and got great looks at lifer #2001 with a few Occelated Antbirds at the edge of an army ant swarm (plus Spotted Antbird, which was new for me in the country). Unfortunately the antbirds were not cooperative for photos. I stayed on the trails until after lunch and continued to add more species including my fourth new Costa Rica species for the day with a Scaly throated Foliage Gleaner. Most of the afternoon was spent around the deck at the room which continued to produce new species for the trip. Overall I found a total of 114 species for the day with one lifer. 

Emerald Tanager, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Black headed Nightingale Thrush, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Red lored Parrots, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Yellow faced Grassquit, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Yellow throated Toucan, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Gray headed Chachalaca, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Laughing Falcon, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Rufous tailed Jacamar, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Pale billed Woodpecker, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Long tailed Tyrant, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Hepatic Tanager, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Dusky capped Flycatcher, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

White necked Jacobin, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Slaty capped Flycatcher, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

Black crested Coquette, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

King Vulture, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 8, 2024

The last full day at the lodge I tried to maximize the number of species for the day by covering a few new areas as well as hitting previously visited areas. I’m happy to say I did indeed maximize species for the day with a total of 139 species for the day. I got up before dawn in the hopes of tracking down owls and had a couple Black and White Owls calling. Unlike the previous couple mornings in was overcast and I was afraid it might rain but it never did and the mainly overcast conditions early on made in more tolerable to be out in the open areas. Once my owling was done I headed out to the far end of the property to hit some primary forest edges before heading back for breakfast at eight. It was a very productive two and a half hours plus with a hundred species just during that time period. After a short break for breakfast I was back out on the trails and the sun made an appearance from time to time which heated things up quick. The breeze made it a bit more tolerable but also made it tough to see movement at times. Nonetheless it was a very productive second part to my morning out with several new species for the trip. I finally ended after noon time and then mainly stayed right around our room. 

Scarlet thighed Dacnis, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Keel billed Toucan, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Tropical Parula, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Crested Guan, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Masked Tityra, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Hepatic Tanager, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Summer Tanager, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Black crested Coquette, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Black crested Coquette, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Cinnamon bellied Saltator, Hotel Laguna Arenal, Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Sunset on Lake Arenal, Hotel Laguna Arenal, Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica, Mar 9, 2024

Saturday was our last scheduled morning at the lodge and I tried to make the most of it. For some odd reason my old iPhone I was using as my alarm clock changed to an hour early so I inadvertently ended up waking up at 4AM and only noticed it was so early after I got up and moving. I was already up so I figured I would do some owling and added a couple of Spectacled Owls plus a Black and White Owl as well as a number of pauraques. Once it got light enough to see I hit more trails at the far end of the lodge property and yet again had a number of new species for the trip.  I had to hustle back to make it for breakfast at eight. Once breakfast was done I made a more leisurely walk on the trail near the waterfall. The heat of the day curtailed some activity but there were still plenty of birds to see and photograph.

We had to check out of our room around noon but the lodge was nice enough to hold our luggage until we left around 1:30. We had an enjoyable lunch and then spent some time observing the feeders once again. We then made the roughly 45 minute trip to our new lodging along the lake. This is when the day took a bad turn.  Our new spot did not turn out to be what we expected.  It was loud, had a bunch of outdoor cats around, the expected on site restaurant was closed and the list went on and on.  We choose the spot based on good reviews and the description on their website and we made a big mistake as none of these turned out to be true.  The only good part of the location was a great look at the lake.  It was not a place we wanted to stay so we had to do a lot of last minute rearranging to find a new place and secure transport…I won’t bother with even more details but suffice it to say it was stressful and I would not recommend Hotel Laguna Arenal to anyone. We tried to see if Arenal Observatory Lodge had any availability but it was booked solid. We finally found a place in Nuevo Arenal and got there around sunset.  Despite all the setbacks for the day I still managed a respectable 135 species for the day.

Black headed Saltators, Villa Decary, Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica, Mar 10, 2024

Black cowled Oriole, Villa Decary, Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica, Mar 10, 2024

Black and White Warbler, Villa Decary, Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica, Mar 10, 2024

Streak headed Woodcreeper, Villa Decary, Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica, Mar 10, 2024

Ochre bellied Flycatcher, Villa Decary, Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica, Mar 10, 2024

Montezuma Oropendola, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 10, 2024

After a less than restful night I got up and walked along the road near our lodging and actually had a fairly decent showing of species with a total of 62 species in about an hour and a half. Nothing too unusual and nothing new for my Costa Rica list. As our lodging was in Guanacaste province (the only province I had not birded before in Costa Rica) I was able to add a lot of new species for the province…totaling 83 species by the time we left. After I got back to the lodging we had a discussion on what do to next. The lodging we were stayed on the night before was acceptable but there was not much to do there without a car and the advertised trails on site had not been maintained in awhile and were not accessible.  We discussed a few options and tried again to see if the observatory lodge had any openings. There was nothing showing on their website so we decided to call and luckily there was an opening for the night. We booked it and then tried to figure out how to get there. With a bit of work we secured transportation and arrived there around noon and walked a bit as we waited for our room to be ready for check in. When we left the day before I did not figure on returning to the lodge. I walked a bit before lunch and then a little more after. It was another warm day with some clouds, which made it a little more comfortable. 

Green Honeycreeper, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

Variable Seedeater, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

Cape May Warbler, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

Streak headed Woodcreeper, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

Gartered Trogon, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

Summer Tanager, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

Stripe throated Hermit, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

White crowned Parrots, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

Emerald Tanager, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

Wasp with spider kill, Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica, Mar 11, 2024

With an extra morning at the lodge I did my best to make the most of it. The wind that kicked up the night before continued into the morning and the overcast conditions looked threatening for rain which materialized from time to time during my pre breakfast walk. Given the conditions I did not have high hopes in tracking down any owls early on. Luck was on my side nonetheless and I had two Crested Owls calling, giving me my last life bird of the trip (#2002). I then walked multiple trails and certainly turned up birds but not in the same number as previous mornings due to the less than stellar conditions for finding birds. After enjoining another breakfast I had plans to go back out on the trails in the hopes of finding the Crested Owls roosting. The weather initially had other plans as downpours started and continued for almost an hour before relenting. The worst of the rain was over by then although it spit and threatened for the rest of our time there. I finally was able to make it back down to try to find the owls without having any luck. We finally wrapped up our time at the lodge at 2:30 when we got picked up for the three plus hour drive back to San Jose where we spent the night before an early flight home. 

 

Now for a review of the numbers for the trip.  I found a total of five life species (White throated Magpie Jay, Striped Owl, Sunbittern, Occelated Antbird and Crested Owl).  I added 16 new species to my Costa Rica list, which brought my total in the country to 554.  I found a total of 214 species for the trip, which is fairly decent in my book without having a guide at any point.  I had 18 species of warblers, with one new for me in the country (Cape May Warbler).  More on warblers for the trip can be found at the following link:  Costa Rica warblers March 2024

Full album of photos at the following link: Costa Rica March 2024