Tuesday, November 23, 2021

Southern Ecuador Part 2 (Nov 11-14)


Golden plumed Parakeets, Road between Zumba and San Andres, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Golden plumed Parakeet, Road between Zumba and San Andres, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
White capped Dippers, Road between Zumba and San Andres, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Nesting trees of Golden plumed Parakeets, Road between Zumba and San Andres, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Parque Nacional Yacuri, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Plumbeous Sierra Finch, Parque Nacional Yacuri, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Neblina Metaltail, Parque Nacional Yacuri, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Paramo, Parque Nacional Yacuri, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Chestnut crested Cotinga, Road west of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Flame faced Tanager, Road west of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

We spent another somewhat restless night in Zumba (including some Wednesday night fireworks!) before making a very early trek out to the west with the destination being the paramo in Yacuri National Park. We were on the road at five and drove steadily west for about three hours. We had a couple nightjar species along the road predawn but nothing too unusual. A brief stop in an area with tall palms produced at least half a dozen Golden plumed Parakeets with lots of vocalizations. We had the road almost all the way to the paramo to ourselves and it really felt like you were isolated from the world. The weather was almost completely clear which provided some truly amazing views of the mountains. We made it to the high point of the road (around 3500 meters) and into the paramo around 8:30 or so and started looking for the specialty species of the area. We got a few species but no lifers (I had been to the paramo in the northern part of Ecuador before). In the end we got most of the species we expected to find there but did miss on a couple. The ride back down the mountain took slightly less time but was still a long drive. A stop along the way proved fruitful with a pair of Chestnut crested Cotingas that showed very well. The stop also afforded some good views of tanagers with Flame faced Tanagers being the most impressive. We got back to Zumba to have a slightly earlier lunch, pick up our luggage and then head north to our final destination for the day at Casa Simpson in the Tapachalaca reserve. 

Masked Yellowthroat (Maranon Yellowthroat subspecies), Road north of Zumba, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Masked Flowerpiercer, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021
Amethyst throated Sunangel, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 11, 2021

We spent the afternoon yet again searching for the Maranon Yellowthroat and we just keep coming up empty. As we neared an area where the species has been seen before (but not regularly) the clouds moved in and it started to rain. We made stops in the rain and still nothing. We made yet another stop with the rain falling lightly and we finally found the bird. We were both relieved! We then continued our drive to Tapichalaca to the Casa Simpson Lodge where we arrived around 3:30. Although the rain continued on and off the hummingbird feeders provided some great looks at three species of hummingbirds that fed at arms length. We tried one more time for some roadside birding before dinner but the rain kept things quiet. We then had dinner at the lodge and spent the night there. 
Jocotoco Antpitta, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
Jocotoco Antpitta, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
Russet crowned Warbler, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
White eyed Parakeet, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
Undulated Antpitta, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
White throated Quail Dove, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
Chestnut breasted Coronet, Reserva Tapichalaca, Zamora-Chinchipe, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

After a night at the lodge and an early breakfast we were out the door with one of the local guides to visit a nearby trail system.  The big draw at the location is the Jocotoco Antpitta which was initially discovered in the area in 1997 and the reason the reserve was created (the first reserve of the Jocotoco Foundation). We made the hike into the area where the antpitta has been accustomed to coming in to feed on worms offered to it every day. The hike in was muddy and wet but certainly passable if you watched your footing. On the way into the antpitta feeding station we came across a number of birds including multiple pairs of White eyed Parakeets, an Undulated Antpitta (usually not in the area during this time of year), at least two White throated Quail Doves and multiple Russet crowned Warblers which offered incredible looks. Once we made it to the feeding station the guide started whistling and calling the antpitta in. After a bit of waiting the Jocotoco Antpitta made an appearance and fed from just several feet away. Antpittas can be extremely hard to see and having one so close was a treat for sure. I had a similar experience during my last trip to Ecuador when we visited a site where a farmer learned to feed multiple species of antpitta and could call them by name and have them come right in.  Once we had our fill of the antpitta we started walking our way back out and the rain started to pick up but not before we came across a nice mixed flock which contained a number of species but we had no luck turning up a Three banded Warbler despite a lot of effort. We then headed back to the lodge to pick up our items and get one more quick fix at the hummingbird feeders.  
Tumbes Sparrow, Catamayo dump, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
 Croaking Ground Dove, Catamayo dump, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
Three banded Warbler, Chinchas-Portavelo Road, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
White vented Plumeleteer (Ecuadorian), Chinchas-Portavelo Road, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
Peruvian Tyrannulet (Loja), Chinchas-Portavelo Road, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021
Yellow rumped Cacique, Chinchas-Portavelo Road, Loja, Ecuador, Nov 12, 2021

Before 10AM we were on the road again for another long drive north and then west to Buenaventura and two nights at the Umbrellabird Lodge. To break up the drive we made several short stops along the way. The first couple stops were not too productive but the light rain probably didn’t help the situation. A brief stop at dump in Catamayo produced my first Croaking Ground Doves as well as a Tumbes Sparrow. After a bit further of a drive we turned off the paved road and headed down a dirt road that produced some great stops with many highlights including Three banded Warbler. We finally arrived at the Umbrellabird Lodge around dinner time.  The evening produced my first Black and White Owls which we were able to both hear and see. 
White necked Jacobin, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Green Honeycreeper, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Crowned Woodnymph (Emerald-bellied), Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Olive crowned Yellowthroat, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Thick billed Euphonia, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Club winged Manakin, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Golden Tanager, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Collared Aracari (Pale-mandibled), Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Violet bellied Hummingbird, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Green Thorntail, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Long wattled Umbrellabird, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021
Red masked Parakeet, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 13, 2021

On our first morning at Buenaventura we hit the roads above the lodge in a thick fog and light rain/drizzle looking for mixed flocks as we headed to an area where the endangered El Oro Parakeet nests. We birded the road going up and had some birds but the fog made viewing difficult at times. By the time we made it to the first area where the parakeets have been seen the sun was shining through but there were no parakeets around. We stayed for a bit but then decided to try another spot. Although the local guide with us heard the parakeets once we didn’t so no luck at the second spot either. All was not lost as there was a great mixed flock moving through that produced some good birds including a Club winged Manakin displaying By the afternoon the rain had started up in earnest once again and we headed down the trail in the hopes of getting out of the rain and we were somewhat successful in that endeavor We then made it to the lek sight of the Long Wattled Umbrellabird (a rare crow sized bird with a long wattle and a very unique display). The rain continued to pick up as we walked down to the site. We got muddy and soaked but kept going. Thankfully one of the lodge guides was there and after a clamor up a muddy slope we got to see the bird. Unfortunately due to the rain he was not displaying but was impressive nonetheless. A truly odd looking bird and my final lifer for the day. The rest of the afternoon was spent drying out and enjoying the feeders at the lodge.
El Oro Parakeets, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
El Oro Parakeets, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
Mountains in the morning, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
Rufous headed Chachalaca (no trip to the tropics is complete without chachalacas), Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
Howler Monkeys, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
Agouti, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
Gray and Gold Warbler, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
Booted Racket Tail, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
Blue necked Tanager, Reserva Buenaventura, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

On my last day of birding we began with a trip back up the mountain along muddy dirt roads to try our luck once again in tracking down the El Oro Parakeet. The morning started a little earlier than the day before and we didn’t make as many stops getting to the top. We made it to parakeet area around 6:30. It was somewhat clear to start but the fog moved in and cut visibility again. We had a couple parakeets fly past very distantly and then disappear into the fog. As we waited for parakeets to return we poked around the old hacienda and turned up some birds with an impressive number of crakes calling plus other stuff. As I was watching a Azara’s Spinetail a flock of El Oro Parakeets flew right over me. I quickly made it back to the area that overlooked the small valley and the flock of ten had perched in a far tree and I got some distant photos through the fog. As we watched them the conditions cleared up and we got distant but great views before the entire group took off to parts unknown. As we waited a bit for them to return once again we got some raptors moving on the first thermals of the day plus my first chance to get some photos of a chachalaca before the end of the trip (rufous headed Chachalacas to be exact). Before heading back down the mountain again we checked out the small hummingbird feeding station and although the overall numbers were much lower than at the lodge the overall diversity of hummingbirds was greater with eight species. We then birded the road down to the lodge with a few stops in the ever increasing fog. By the time we made it to the lodge for an early lunch the rain was starting to fall lightly. I took in the spectacle at the feeding station one more time before packing up and beginning the long drive back to Guayaquil. 
Magnificent Frigatebird, Puerto Jelí, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021
Yellow crowned Night Heron rookery, Puerto Jelí, El Oro, Ecuador, Nov 14, 2021

We broke up the four hour drive with a quick stop along the coast to pick up some coastal birds. The tide was high and the area busy with people but we did get a few more species for the trip. The most noteworthy sighting there was a large Yellow crowned Night Heron rookery that had dozens of active nests. We arrived in Guayaquil around 6 and then I waited around for hours until my red eye flight back to Miami.  The remainder of the day was spent in the airport and I eventually made it back home late in the afternoon on  the 15th. 

Overall it was a very successful trip with all my targets found.  The trip produced a total of 311 species with 75 of those being life birds.  My total number of species ever now stands at 1657.  

More details on the warblers for the trip can be found at the following link:  southern Ecuador warblers.

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